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<html><head><title>黄山归来不看岳</title><meta charSet="utf-8"/><meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0"/><meta property="og:title" content="黄山归来不看岳"/><meta property="og:description" content="自驾游黄山,途径徽州古城、宏村,感受徽派建筑。徒步爬黄山主峰观赏日出日落,山顶遇到困境无处住宿。虽然过程艰辛,还是看到了壮美的银河,完成了此行主要目的。总体感觉不错,但觉得黄山过度商业化,一次就足够。."/><meta property="og:image" content="https://wiki.7wate.com/static/og-image.png"/><meta property="og:width" content="1200"/><meta property="og:height" content="675"/><link rel="icon" href="../../../static/icon.png"/><meta name="description" content="自驾游黄山,途径徽州古城、宏村,感受徽派建筑。徒步爬黄山主峰观赏日出日落,山顶遇到困境无处住宿。虽然过程艰辛,还是看到了壮美的银河,完成了此行主要目的。总体感觉不错,但觉得黄山过度商业化,一次就足够。."/><meta name="generator" content="Quartz"/><link rel="preconnect" href="https://fonts.googleapis.com"/><link rel="preconnect" href="https://fonts.gstatic.com"/><script async src="https://umami.7wate.com/script.js" data-website-id="c061efdc-95dd-4d21-9d04-a1ffda0a85b9"></script><script>
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<h2 id="行程">行程<a aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1" href="#行程" class="internal"> §</a></h2>
<p>自从疫情放开以来,满世界景点都是人,抖音上黄山也是刷屏了,人山人海的。同时黄山最近还免门票,然后就一直在犹豫,去还是不去了?不过最后也是说走就走,直达徽州。</p>
<table><thead><tr><th>时间</th><th>行程</th><th>备注</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td>4 月 14 日 14:00</td><td>出发郑州</td><td>自驾前往徽州古城,预计行程约 870 公里,耗时约 9 小时。</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 14 日 23:00</td><td>到达徽州</td><td>选择附近的酒店住宿,休息。</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 15 日 8:00</td><td>徽州古城</td><td>游览古城风貌,了解徽州文化。时长约 4 小时</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 15 日 13:00</td><td>出发宏村</td><td>前往宏村,欣赏徽派建筑风格,拍摄美丽的乡村风光。时长约 2 小时。</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 15 日 18:00</td><td>黄山温泉</td><td>泡温泉放松身心。时长约 2 小时。</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 16 日 10:00</td><td>开始爬山</td><td>从云谷寺门户进山,途径白鹅岭、始信峰等景点.</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 16 日 17:30</td><td>黄山日落</td><td>在光明顶观看日落,预计日落时间为 17:30。</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 17 日 22:00</td><td>银河升起</td><td>预计银河升起时间为 22:00可以在光明顶附近拍摄星空 。</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 17 日 05:30</td><td>黄山日出</td><td>黄山山顶观看日出,预计日出时间为 05:30。</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 17 日 10:00</td><td>返回郑州</td><td>黄山出发返回郑州,预计行程约 800 公里,耗时约 9 小时。</td></tr></tbody></table>
<p>我们是自驾的方式,一共 3.5 天左右的时间。然后计划第一站徽州古城,接着宏村,最后再登黄山。行程表是 ChatGPT 在我的引导下制定的,真香 ~</p>
<h2 id="徽州">徽州<a aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1" href="#徽州" class="internal"> §</a></h2>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/04/b7f567a9428b3.jpg" alt="徽州古城"/></p>
<p>徽州古城作为中国四大古城之一,位于安徽省黄山市歙县中部。徽城镇始建于秦代设置歙县之时,六朝时期升为新安郡郡治,隋代为歙州治,宋徽宗时又改为徽州治,明清时为徽州府治,直到民国初年废府存县,定名“徽城镇”。</p>
<p>我们快凌晨的时候来到徽州古城边上落脚,刚下车就感受到了江南烟雨弥漫,细雨纷纷宛如牛毛在漫天飞舞。啊觅食觅食,开了快十个小时的车都饿坏了。在徽州古城前,走来走去再也不知道该吃什么了。一位老者站在徽菜馆的门口揽客,我们索性也就不挑了。</p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/04/606a273bda3bc.jpg" alt="徽菜"/></p>
<p>要数徽菜最让我印象深的就是竹笋了,老板说现在是竹笋的季节,基本都是当天挖当天吃,真的嘎嘎好吃。臭鳜鱼还是啥鱼,我也忘了,鱼刺不少导致没吃多少,妥妥浪费。总的来说这家饭馆菜量不少,食材也蛮新鲜,味道也不错,色香味俱全哈哈。</p>
<p>酒饱饭足,睡觉 ~</p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/04/8e8382628bdbd.jpg" alt="百公里越野"/></p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/04/c16671996b31a.jpg" alt="徽州古城街巷"/></p>
<p>早上起来继续觅食,竹笋包子真的很好吃,种草!好巧当天正好还是黄山徽州古城百公里越野赛,不过人也太多了……导致我们只能逆着人流游玩,然后像个街溜子似的,无所事事的乱溜达。</p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/04/24a0f12b5f065.jpg" alt="徽州古城"/></p>
<p>徽州古城是徽派建筑中具有代表性的一座城市,素以结构严谨,比例美观,雕刻精美著称。其通常以木材、石头、青砖为主要材料,以墙、柱、梁、瓦为主要构件,建筑形态多样,包括门楼、府邸、园林、墓葬、城池等建筑类型。徽派建筑布局狭窄,黑白灰色调,乍一看挺新奇的。</p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/04/188cedcbb8b9c.jpg" alt="徽州古城山包"/></p>
<p>正所谓站得高,看得远;随后我们直奔徽州古城的最高点,一座不知其名的山。可山上却莫名其妙的荒凉,山顶一所废弃学校也显得阴森诡异,后背直发凉。赶紧溜溜球 ~</p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/04/b53cb28cb5146.jpg" alt="骑摩托"/></p>
<p>山下有很多摩拜电车哈哈,于是我们纷纷骑上各自心爱的小摩托飞奔在徽州古城。要是没有遇摩拜电车,我们真的是怕要累死在徽州古城。最巧的是我叔刚好还遇见了,曾在抖音上关注卖砚台的一个博主,真是奇奇怪怪的缘分哈哈。</p>
<blockquote>
<p>江南歙州(徽州)的砚是中国四大名砚之一,与甘肃洮砚、广东端砚、山西澄泥砚齐名。</p>
</blockquote>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/85f490bb5c6c2.jpg" alt="徽商大院"/></p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/707ddf36b1ffa.jpg" alt="徽商大院"/></p>
<p>徽商大宅院本不在行程规划中,我们也是在歙县乱逛然后遇见了,决定进去参观一下。</p>
<p>徽商大宅院位于歙县县城。整座古建筑群集牌坊、戏台、亭阁、花园、水榭等于一体, 为组合式的宅第群体,有宅第 26 座、房屋数百间、天井 36 个、柱子 1580 根。徽商大宅院气势宏伟,马头墙层层昂起,飞檐翘首,亭阁桥榭、牌坊宅第浑然一体,三雕精品比比皆是。</p>
<p>向导当时对徽商大宅院的解说,让我感触最深的有以下几个方面:</p>
<ul>
<li>过高的院墙,极小的窗户,仅仅两三个拳头那么宽。</li>
<li>前世不修,生在徽州。十三四岁,往外一丢。</li>
<li>大门不出,二门不迈,裹脚,从不下二楼。</li>
</ul>
<p>因徽商终年在外经商,家中仅有妻子持家。为了避免遭遇飞贼和囚禁妇女所设计极小的窗户、超高的院墙,仅仅只通过天井采光。主要是在封建社会中男尊女卑的观念非常普遍,在这种观念下,男子被赋予了更多的社会和政治权力,而妇女则被限制在私人领域之内。徽商更是为了家族财富的传承、宗祠地位的延续,早早的就把男孩扔出去经商,采取优胜略汰的自然法则继承;并把妇女则被作为一种财产和工具,一方面同达官贵人联姻,一方面展示自己雄厚的实力。</p>
<h2 id="宏村">宏村<a aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1" href="#宏村" class="internal"> §</a></h2>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/0f8f709edbb9f.jpg" alt="徽州古村落"/></p>
<p>因为徽州距离宏村还不到一百公里的路程,所以我们决定不走高速,深入体验一下江南烟雨人家。我们穿流在各个徽州村落,尽肆意地吮吸着空气中弥漫的炒茶香气。那儿好,就下车,饱饱眼福;可真想在这个小河边上整点烧烤,小啤酒,仅仅是想想都自在 ~</p>
<p>不像以前打卡式旅游,现在特别喜欢到一个新地方住一段时间,十天半个月的,深度体验原汁原味的乡土生活。有时候想想,尽管都生活在同一个世界,但是各自却又仿佛处在平行时空,等有朝一日相遇。总会不禁发出感叹,哇哦,原来生活还可以这个样子。</p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/2f07004cbb382.jpg" alt="宏村"/></p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/f28b3b619dd79.jpg" alt="宏村-2"/></p>
<p>宏村有世外桃源的感觉,最后开车穿过一条隧道就到了。但宏村人真的太多了,密密麻麻的全都是人,我也没有带三脚架,随便捏了两张。还有就是商业化太严重,没有感受到浓厚的人文气息,建议去过一次就行了。毕竟进这个村就得 100 元的门票……</p>
<p>不知道为什么徽派建筑总给我一种直观感受:压抑,压抑,还是压抑,深墙窄院、天井小窗无不处处透露着压抑。例如这口水塘,我就不信历史上没有女性在这被沉过塘;还有古代交通不发达,生活资料不足,缺吃少穿的,普通老百姓肯定生活在水深火热中。</p>
<p>心里默默感叹,幸好生活在二十一世纪,不然早就是封建社会制度的刀下亡魂了……</p>
<h2 id="黄山">黄山<a aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1" href="#黄山" class="internal"> §</a></h2>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/6f0a5791fbfa4.jpg" alt="微信图片_20230505153743"/></p>
<p>原本打算在黄山脚下泡个温泉了,但攻略没做好就泡汤了。我们在去吃饭的路上,碰见一个姑娘推销要不要登山杖,随后就买了一个,结果在饭店吃饭的时候又偶遇了哈哈,奇奇怪怪的缘分。</p>
<p>秉承着今朝有酒今朝醉,大家喝的很开心,拍拍屁股睡觉,明天登黄山。</p>
<hr/>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/3f3aaea21d454.jpg" alt="黄山"/></p>
<p>黄山古名黟山史书载中华民族始祖黄帝带领部下大臣容成子和浮丘公到这里炼丹最后得道升天。唐天宝六年747 年),根据这一传说,信奉道教的唐玄宗将黟山改为黄山。黄山地处安徽省南部,介于歙县,黟县,太平县和休宁县之间,属传统徽州地区。黄山的主峰为莲花峰,海拔 1864 米。黄山素以<strong>奇松、怪石、云海、温泉</strong>四绝著称。明朝旅行家、地理学家徐霞客曾两次登临黄山,赞叹说:“<strong>五岳归来不看山,黄山归来不看岳</strong>”。</p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/9482e8b88efff.jpg" alt="黄山地图"/></p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/a1789a9823862.png" alt="image-20230505155225888"/></p>
<p>关于黄山的攻略我推荐大家看这个:<a href="https://www.mafengwo.cn/gonglve/ziyouxing/405792.html" class="external">2021保姆级 黄山 全攻略,亲绘黄山地图比官方要好。</a></p>
<p>我们计划在 10 点左右从云谷寺出发爬山,然后依次始信峰、狮子顶峰、丹霞峰、最后傍晚到达光明的看日落。山顶过夜,凌晨拍银河,次日早上看日出下山,纯徒步路线,而且可以完美避开人流。</p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/7b5ee29671e05.jpg" alt="玛尼堆"/></p>
<p>黄山比泰山、华山要爬的轻松些,保持好节奏感,慢慢来就 ok我们从云谷寺去白鹅岭大约 3 个小时左右。同时为了弥补上次在川西没有堆玛尼堆的愿望,我们在黄山脚下堆了一个,为每个看到的人祈福 ~</p>
<p>中午 1 点左右,我们到达白鹅岭,然后就开始了真正的黄山之旅!如上图中可以看出,黄山实际上就是一块巨大的花岗岩,正中有一处凹地,山峦环抱西海水库。于是我们就从这个山头走向那个山头,最著名的奇石景观是猴子观海。</p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/e4c7edda836ce.jpg" alt="黄山-4"/></p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/28d538cef98e8.jpg" alt="猴子观海"/></p>
<p>临近日落,我们实在是爬不动了。但是有句老话说得好,来都来了哈哈哈。那就冲冲冲,四驱战士在行动!当爬上光明顶的时候,只顾着兴奋了,却全然不知道巨大的痛苦还在后边。原本我们打算住山顶酒店的,可一直预定不到房间。就想着先上山吧,上去了啥都好说,实在没办法的话就去睡厕所。</p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/cb709a014a520.jpg" alt="休息小房子"/></p>
<p>山顶的风巨大,我们又累又饿又困,看看给我叔难为的哈哈哈哈哈哈哈哈哈哈哈哈。尽管这次黄山我们已经很尽力避开人流了,可是就这都找不到合适的拍照位置,人真的太多了……</p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/9faba8cd7d287.jpg" alt="黄山日落"/></p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/71161b6be822e.jpg" alt="黄山合照"/></p>
<p>好了,现在日落看完了。我们的心也要开始凉了,本以为住在山顶,没想到没有一间房,然后厕所门也都不开。我们连个落脚的地方都没有,只能蜷缩在一个小亭子里,还是三面透风的那种,遭老罪了。山风呼呼呼的吹,人都站不住。地面上冰凉刺骨,坐一会屁股都麻了……</p>
<p>我们想尽一切办法来保暖,穿上雨衣,背上书包,大家一起挤暖和呀。最后实在没办法了,我俩就去环卫工人的小房子里,借用了一些废纸板挡风取暖。最恐怖的还有那两个大学生特种兵,还是女生,就那么孤零零的坐在风口直到凌晨。后来我们喊她们来避风,简单聊了几句,真不愧是大学生特种兵,就是头铁,啥都没带,就准备在山上硬坐到早上看日出。</p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/775f9abd1cd91.jpg" alt="黄山山顶一起避风"/></p>
<p>毕竟痛苦只是暂时的,幸福却是长久可回味的。终究还是前半夜的风吹来了下半夜的银河 ~</p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/55c483fa7c556.jpg" alt="黄山银河"/></p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/6afa2c1ac394c.jpg" alt="银河合照"/></p>
<p>莲花峰、天都峰各依两侧,银河就肉眼可见的在天上挂着,每看到这些照片就会头皮发麻。何其有幸经历过这么多的绝美风光,无不感叹中国的地域辽阔,风景秀丽。</p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/3e7b45b337351.jpg" alt="黄山日出"/></p>
<p>山顶这一夜真的是遭老罪了,好不容易熬到清晨。结果凌晨日出乌压压的全都是人,日出都不想看了,只想下山吃顿好的……</p>
<p>天都峰也不去了,只想一眨眼滚到山脚下了。不过迎客松还是必须得去了,早上 6 点多,前往迎客松方向已经乌压压的都是人了。最后打卡迎客松,然后回家咯!</p>
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/ed0e78cbe9fdc.jpg" alt="黄山迎客松"/></p>
<p>这趟黄山之旅,整体感觉挺不错。唯一不足就是哪哪都是人,山顶那一夜遭老罪了。景区商业化严重可能是各景区的通病,但是有些景区真的是去一次就够了。</p>
<p>我想黄山之所以如此有名,地理位置因素占有相当大的比重,以奇松,怪石和云海为例,华山奇松,怪石更堪称一绝,在我心里排第一。云海的话南方相对北方看到的概率更大一些,这次黄山也是奔着云海去的,本想配合天气计划的是刚刚好。但是雨却延迟了一天,在我们走后的第二天果不其然就迎来了云海 ~</p>
<p>或许没有人可以一直在路上,但是永远会有人在路上 ~</p></article></div><div class="right sidebar"><div class="graph "><h3>Graph View</h3><div class="graph-outer"><div id="graph-container" data-cfg="{&quot;drag&quot;:true,&quot;zoom&quot;:true,&quot;depth&quot;:1,&quot;scale&quot;:1.1,&quot;repelForce&quot;:0.5,&quot;centerForce&quot;:0.3,&quot;linkDistance&quot;:30,&quot;fontSize&quot;:0.6,&quot;opacityScale&quot;:1,&quot;showTags&quot;:true,&quot;removeTags&quot;:[]}"></div><svg version="1.1" id="global-graph-icon" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlnsXlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewBox="0 0 55 55" fill="currentColor" xmlSpace="preserve"><path d="M49,0c-3.309,0-6,2.691-6,6c0,1.035,0.263,2.009,0.726,2.86l-9.829,9.829C32.542,17.634,30.846,17,29,17
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