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<html><head><title>黄山归来不看岳</title><meta charSet="utf-8"/><meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0"/><meta property="og:title" content="黄山归来不看岳"/><meta property="og:description" content="自驾游黄山,途径徽州古城、宏村,感受徽派建筑。徒步爬黄山主峰观赏日出日落,山顶遇到困境无处住宿。虽然过程艰辛,还是看到了壮美的银河,完成了此行主要目的。总体感觉不错,但觉得黄山过度商业化,一次就足够。."/><meta property="og:image" content="https://wiki.7wate.com/static/og-image.png"/><meta property="og:width" content="1200"/><meta property="og:height" content="675"/><link rel="icon" href="../static/icon.png"/><meta name="description" content="自驾游黄山,途径徽州古城、宏村,感受徽派建筑。徒步爬黄山主峰观赏日出日落,山顶遇到困境无处住宿。虽然过程艰辛,还是看到了壮美的银河,完成了此行主要目的。总体感觉不错,但觉得黄山过度商业化,一次就足够。."/><meta name="generator" content="Quartz"/><link rel="preconnect" href="https://fonts.googleapis.com"/><link rel="preconnect" href="https://fonts.gstatic.com"/><script async src="https://umami.7wate.com/script.js" data-website-id="c061efdc-95dd-4d21-9d04-a1ffda0a85b9"></script><script>
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<h2 id="行程">行程<a aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1" href="#行程" class="internal"> §</a></h2>
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<p>自从疫情放开以来，满世界景点都是人，抖音上黄山也是刷屏了，人山人海的。同时黄山最近还免门票，然后就一直在犹豫，去还是不去了？不过最后也是说走就走，直达徽州。</p>
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<table><thead><tr><th>时间</th><th>行程</th><th>备注</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td>4 月 14 日 14:00</td><td>出发郑州</td><td>自驾前往徽州古城，预计行程约 870 公里，耗时约 9 小时。</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 14 日 23:00</td><td>到达徽州</td><td>选择附近的酒店住宿，休息。</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 15 日 8:00</td><td>徽州古城</td><td>游览古城风貌，了解徽州文化。时长约 4 小时</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 15 日 13:00</td><td>出发宏村</td><td>前往宏村，欣赏徽派建筑风格，拍摄美丽的乡村风光。时长约 2 小时。</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 15 日 18:00</td><td>黄山温泉</td><td>泡温泉放松身心。时长约 2 小时。</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 16 日 10:00</td><td>开始爬山</td><td>从云谷寺门户进山，途径白鹅岭、始信峰等景点.</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 16 日 17:30</td><td>黄山日落</td><td>在光明顶观看日落，预计日落时间为 17:30。</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 17 日 22:00</td><td>银河升起</td><td>预计银河升起时间为 22:00，可以在光明顶附近拍摄星空 。</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 17 日 05:30</td><td>黄山日出</td><td>黄山山顶观看日出，预计日出时间为 05:30。</td></tr><tr><td>4 月 17 日 10:00</td><td>返回郑州</td><td>黄山出发返回郑州，预计行程约 800 公里，耗时约 9 小时。</td></tr></tbody></table>
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<p>我们是自驾的方式，一共 3.5 天左右的时间。然后计划第一站徽州古城，接着宏村，最后再登黄山。行程表是 ChatGPT 在我的引导下制定的，真香 ~</p>
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<h2 id="徽州">徽州<a aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1" href="#徽州" class="internal"> §</a></h2>
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/04/b7f567a9428b3.jpg" alt="徽州古城"/></p>
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<p>徽州古城作为中国四大古城之一，位于安徽省黄山市歙县中部。徽城镇始建于秦代设置歙县之时，六朝时期升为新安郡郡治，隋代为歙州治，宋徽宗时又改为徽州治，明清时为徽州府治，直到民国初年废府存县，定名“徽城镇”。</p>
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<p>我们快凌晨的时候来到徽州古城边上落脚，刚下车就感受到了江南烟雨弥漫，细雨纷纷宛如牛毛在漫天飞舞。啊觅食觅食，开了快十个小时的车都饿坏了。在徽州古城前，走来走去再也不知道该吃什么了。一位老者站在徽菜馆的门口揽客，我们索性也就不挑了。</p>
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/04/606a273bda3bc.jpg" alt="徽菜"/></p>
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<p>要数徽菜最让我印象深的就是竹笋了，老板说现在是竹笋的季节，基本都是当天挖当天吃，真的嘎嘎好吃。臭鳜鱼还是啥鱼，我也忘了，鱼刺不少导致没吃多少，妥妥浪费。总的来说这家饭馆菜量不少，食材也蛮新鲜，味道也不错，色香味俱全哈哈。</p>
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<p>酒饱饭足，睡觉 ~</p>
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/04/8e8382628bdbd.jpg" alt="百公里越野"/></p>
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/04/c16671996b31a.jpg" alt="徽州古城街巷"/></p>
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<p>早上起来继续觅食，竹笋包子真的很好吃，种草！好巧当天正好还是黄山徽州古城百公里越野赛，不过人也太多了……导致我们只能逆着人流游玩，然后像个街溜子似的，无所事事的乱溜达。</p>
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/04/24a0f12b5f065.jpg" alt="徽州古城"/></p>
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<p>徽州古城是徽派建筑中具有代表性的一座城市，素以结构严谨，比例美观，雕刻精美著称。其通常以木材、石头、青砖为主要材料，以墙、柱、梁、瓦为主要构件，建筑形态多样，包括门楼、府邸、园林、墓葬、城池等建筑类型。徽派建筑布局狭窄，黑白灰色调，乍一看挺新奇的。</p>
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/04/188cedcbb8b9c.jpg" alt="徽州古城山包"/></p>
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<p>正所谓站得高，看得远；随后我们直奔徽州古城的最高点，一座不知其名的山。可山上却莫名其妙的荒凉，山顶一所废弃学校也显得阴森诡异，后背直发凉。赶紧溜溜球 ~</p>
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/04/b53cb28cb5146.jpg" alt="骑摩托"/></p>
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<p>山下有很多摩拜电车哈哈，于是我们纷纷骑上各自心爱的小摩托飞奔在徽州古城。要是没有遇摩拜电车，我们真的是怕要累死在徽州古城。最巧的是我叔刚好还遇见了，曾在抖音上关注卖砚台的一个博主，真是奇奇怪怪的缘分哈哈。</p>
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<blockquote>
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<p>江南歙州（徽州）的砚是中国四大名砚之一，与甘肃洮砚、广东端砚、山西澄泥砚齐名。</p>
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</blockquote>
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/85f490bb5c6c2.jpg" alt="徽商大院"/></p>
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/707ddf36b1ffa.jpg" alt="徽商大院"/></p>
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<p>徽商大宅院本不在行程规划中，我们也是在歙县乱逛然后遇见了，决定进去参观一下。</p>
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<p>徽商大宅院位于歙县县城。整座古建筑群集牌坊、戏台、亭阁、花园、水榭等于一体， 为组合式的宅第群体，有宅第 26 座、房屋数百间、天井 36 个、柱子 1580 根。徽商大宅院气势宏伟，马头墙层层昂起，飞檐翘首，亭阁桥榭、牌坊宅第浑然一体，三雕精品比比皆是。</p>
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<p>向导当时对徽商大宅院的解说，让我感触最深的有以下几个方面：</p>
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<ul>
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<li>过高的院墙，极小的窗户，仅仅两三个拳头那么宽。</li>
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<li>前世不修，生在徽州。十三四岁，往外一丢。</li>
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<li>大门不出，二门不迈，裹脚，从不下二楼。</li>
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</ul>
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<p>因徽商终年在外经商，家中仅有妻子持家。为了避免遭遇飞贼和囚禁妇女所设计极小的窗户、超高的院墙，仅仅只通过天井采光。主要是在封建社会中男尊女卑的观念非常普遍，在这种观念下，男子被赋予了更多的社会和政治权力，而妇女则被限制在私人领域之内。徽商更是为了家族财富的传承、宗祠地位的延续，早早的就把男孩扔出去经商，采取优胜略汰的自然法则继承；并把妇女则被作为一种财产和工具，一方面同达官贵人联姻，一方面展示自己雄厚的实力。</p>
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<h2 id="宏村">宏村<a aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1" href="#宏村" class="internal"> §</a></h2>
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/0f8f709edbb9f.jpg" alt="徽州古村落"/></p>
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<p>因为徽州距离宏村还不到一百公里的路程，所以我们决定不走高速，深入体验一下江南烟雨人家。我们穿流在各个徽州村落，尽肆意地吮吸着空气中弥漫的炒茶香气。那儿好，就下车，饱饱眼福；可真想在这个小河边上整点烧烤，小啤酒，仅仅是想想都自在 ~</p>
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<p>不像以前打卡式旅游，现在特别喜欢到一个新地方住一段时间，十天半个月的，深度体验原汁原味的乡土生活。有时候想想，尽管都生活在同一个世界，但是各自却又仿佛处在平行时空，等有朝一日相遇。总会不禁发出感叹，哇哦，原来生活还可以这个样子。</p>
|
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/2f07004cbb382.jpg" alt="宏村"/></p>
|
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/f28b3b619dd79.jpg" alt="宏村-2"/></p>
|
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<p>宏村有世外桃源的感觉，最后开车穿过一条隧道就到了。但宏村人真的太多了，密密麻麻的全都是人，我也没有带三脚架，随便捏了两张。还有就是商业化太严重，没有感受到浓厚的人文气息，建议去过一次就行了。毕竟进这个村就得 100 元的门票……</p>
|
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<p>不知道为什么徽派建筑总给我一种直观感受：压抑，压抑，还是压抑，深墙窄院、天井小窗无不处处透露着压抑。例如这口水塘，我就不信历史上没有女性在这被沉过塘；还有古代交通不发达，生活资料不足，缺吃少穿的，普通老百姓肯定生活在水深火热中。</p>
|
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<p>心里默默感叹，幸好生活在二十一世纪，不然早就是封建社会制度的刀下亡魂了……</p>
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<h2 id="黄山">黄山<a aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1" href="#黄山" class="internal"> §</a></h2>
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/6f0a5791fbfa4.jpg" alt="微信图片_20230505153743"/></p>
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<p>原本打算在黄山脚下泡个温泉了，但攻略没做好就泡汤了。我们在去吃饭的路上，碰见一个姑娘推销要不要登山杖，随后就买了一个，结果在饭店吃饭的时候又偶遇了哈哈，奇奇怪怪的缘分。</p>
|
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<p>秉承着今朝有酒今朝醉，大家喝的很开心，拍拍屁股睡觉，明天登黄山。</p>
|
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<hr/>
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/3f3aaea21d454.jpg" alt="黄山"/></p>
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<p>黄山古名黟山，史书载：中华民族始祖黄帝带领部下大臣容成子和浮丘公到这里炼丹，最后得道升天。唐天宝六年（747 年），根据这一传说，信奉道教的唐玄宗将黟山改为黄山。黄山地处安徽省南部，介于歙县，黟县，太平县和休宁县之间，属传统徽州地区。黄山的主峰为莲花峰，海拔 1864 米。黄山素以<strong>奇松、怪石、云海、温泉</strong>四绝著称。明朝旅行家、地理学家徐霞客曾两次登临黄山，赞叹说：“<strong>五岳归来不看山，黄山归来不看岳</strong>”。</p>
|
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/9482e8b88efff.jpg" alt="黄山地图"/></p>
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/a1789a9823862.png" alt="image-20230505155225888"/></p>
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<p>关于黄山的攻略我推荐大家看这个：<a href="https://www.mafengwo.cn/gonglve/ziyouxing/405792.html" class="external">2021保姆级 黄山 全攻略，亲绘黄山地图比官方要好。</a></p>
|
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<p>我们计划在 10 点左右从云谷寺出发爬山，然后依次始信峰、狮子顶峰、丹霞峰、最后傍晚到达光明的看日落。山顶过夜，凌晨拍银河，次日早上看日出下山，纯徒步路线，而且可以完美避开人流。</p>
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/7b5ee29671e05.jpg" alt="玛尼堆"/></p>
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<p>黄山比泰山、华山要爬的轻松些，保持好节奏感，慢慢来就 ok，我们从云谷寺去白鹅岭大约 3 个小时左右。同时为了弥补上次在川西没有堆玛尼堆的愿望，我们在黄山脚下堆了一个，为每个看到的人祈福 ~</p>
|
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<p>中午 1 点左右，我们到达白鹅岭，然后就开始了真正的黄山之旅！如上图中可以看出，黄山实际上就是一块巨大的花岗岩，正中有一处凹地，山峦环抱西海水库。于是我们就从这个山头走向那个山头，最著名的奇石景观是猴子观海。</p>
|
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/e4c7edda836ce.jpg" alt="黄山-4"/></p>
|
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/28d538cef98e8.jpg" alt="猴子观海"/></p>
|
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<p>临近日落，我们实在是爬不动了。但是有句老话说得好，来都来了哈哈哈。那就冲冲冲，四驱战士在行动！当爬上光明顶的时候，只顾着兴奋了，却全然不知道巨大的痛苦还在后边。原本我们打算住山顶酒店的，可一直预定不到房间。就想着先上山吧，上去了啥都好说，实在没办法的话就去睡厕所。</p>
|
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/cb709a014a520.jpg" alt="休息小房子"/></p>
|
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<p>山顶的风巨大，我们又累又饿又困，看看给我叔难为的哈哈哈哈哈哈哈哈哈哈哈哈。尽管这次黄山我们已经很尽力避开人流了，可是就这都找不到合适的拍照位置，人真的太多了……</p>
|
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/9faba8cd7d287.jpg" alt="黄山日落"/></p>
|
|||
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/71161b6be822e.jpg" alt="黄山合照"/></p>
|
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<p>好了，现在日落看完了。我们的心也要开始凉了，本以为住在山顶，没想到没有一间房，然后厕所门也都不开。我们连个落脚的地方都没有，只能蜷缩在一个小亭子里，还是三面透风的那种，遭老罪了。山风呼呼呼的吹，人都站不住。地面上冰凉刺骨，坐一会屁股都麻了……</p>
|
|||
|
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<p>我们想尽一切办法来保暖，穿上雨衣，背上书包，大家一起挤暖和呀。最后实在没办法了，我俩就去环卫工人的小房子里，借用了一些废纸板挡风取暖。最恐怖的还有那两个大学生特种兵，还是女生，就那么孤零零的坐在风口直到凌晨。后来我们喊她们来避风，简单聊了几句，真不愧是大学生特种兵，就是头铁，啥都没带，就准备在山上硬坐到早上看日出。</p>
|
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/775f9abd1cd91.jpg" alt="黄山山顶一起避风"/></p>
|
|||
|
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<p>毕竟痛苦只是暂时的，幸福却是长久可回味的。终究还是前半夜的风吹来了下半夜的银河 ~</p>
|
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|
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/55c483fa7c556.jpg" alt="黄山银河"/></p>
|
|||
|
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/6afa2c1ac394c.jpg" alt="银河合照"/></p>
|
|||
|
|
<p>莲花峰、天都峰各依两侧，银河就肉眼可见的在天上挂着，每看到这些照片就会头皮发麻。何其有幸经历过这么多的绝美风光，无不感叹中国的地域辽阔，风景秀丽。</p>
|
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<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/3e7b45b337351.jpg" alt="黄山日出"/></p>
|
|||
|
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<p>山顶这一夜真的是遭老罪了，好不容易熬到清晨。结果凌晨日出乌压压的全都是人，日出都不想看了，只想下山吃顿好的……</p>
|
|||
|
|
<p>天都峰也不去了，只想一眨眼滚到山脚下了。不过迎客松还是必须得去了，早上 6 点多，前往迎客松方向已经乌压压的都是人了。最后打卡迎客松，然后回家咯！</p>
|
|||
|
|
<p><img src="https://static.7wate.com/img/2023/05/05/ed0e78cbe9fdc.jpg" alt="黄山迎客松"/></p>
|
|||
|
|
<p>这趟黄山之旅，整体感觉挺不错。唯一不足就是哪哪都是人，山顶那一夜遭老罪了。景区商业化严重可能是各景区的通病，但是有些景区真的是去一次就够了。</p>
|
|||
|
|
<p>我想黄山之所以如此有名，地理位置因素占有相当大的比重，以奇松，怪石和云海为例，华山奇松，怪石更堪称一绝，在我心里排第一。云海的话南方相对北方看到的概率更大一些，这次黄山也是奔着云海去的，本想配合天气计划的是刚刚好。但是雨却延迟了一天，在我们走后的第二天果不其然就迎来了云海 ~</p>
|
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|
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<p>或许没有人可以一直在路上，但是永远会有人在路上 ~</p></article></div><div class="right sidebar"><div class="graph "><h3>Graph View</h3><div class="graph-outer"><div id="graph-container" data-cfg="{"drag":true,"zoom":true,"depth":1,"scale":1.1,"repelForce":0.5,"centerForce":0.3,"linkDistance":30,"fontSize":0.6,"opacityScale":1,"showTags":true,"removeTags":[]}"></div><svg version="1.1" id="global-graph-icon" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlnsXlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewBox="0 0 55 55" fill="currentColor" xmlSpace="preserve"><path d="M49,0c-3.309,0-6,2.691-6,6c0,1.035,0.263,2.009,0.726,2.86l-9.829,9.829C32.542,17.634,30.846,17,29,17
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s1.794-4,4-4S33,46.794,33,49z M29,31c-3.309,0-6-2.691-6-6s2.691-6,6-6s6,2.691,6,6S32.309,31,29,31z M47,41c0,1.103-0.897,2-2,2
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s-2-0.897-2-2s0.897-2,2-2S47,39.897,47,41z M49,10c-2.206,0-4-1.794-4-4s1.794-4,4-4s4,1.794,4,4S51.206,10,49,10z"></path></svg></div><div id="global-graph-outer"><div id="global-graph-container" data-cfg="{"drag":true,"zoom":true,"depth":-1,"scale":0.9,"repelForce":0.5,"centerForce":0.3,"linkDistance":30,"fontSize":0.6,"opacityScale":1,"showTags":true,"removeTags":[]}"></div></div></div><div class="toc desktop-only"><button type="button" id="toc" class><h3>Table of Contents</h3><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="24" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="fold"><polyline points="6 9 12 15 18 9"></polyline></svg></button><div id="toc-content"><ul class="overflow"><li class="depth-0"><a href="#行程" data-for="行程">行程</a></li><li class="depth-0"><a href="#徽州" data-for="徽州">徽州</a></li><li class="depth-0"><a href="#宏村" data-for="宏村">宏村</a></li><li class="depth-0"><a href="#黄山" data-for="黄山">黄山</a></li></ul></div></div><div class="backlinks "><h3>Backlinks</h3><ul class="overflow"><li>No backlinks found</li></ul></div><div class="explorer mobile-only"><button type="button" id="explorer" data-behavior="collapse" data-collapsed="collapsed" data-savestate="true" data-tree="[{"path":"Basics","collapsed":true},{"path":"Basics/english","collapsed":true},{"path":"Blog","collapsed":true},{"path":"Book","collapsed":true},{"path":"Book/个人成长","collapsed":true},{"path":"Book/医学健康","collapsed":true},{"path":"Book/历史","collapsed":true},{"path":"Book/哲学宗教","collapsed":true},{"path":"Book/心理","collapsed":true},{"path":"Book/政治军事","collapsed":true},{"path":"Book/教育学习","collapsed":true},{"path":"Book/文学","collapsed":true},{"path":"Book/生活百科","collapsed":true},{"path":"Book/社会文化","collapsed":true},{"path":"Book/科学技术","collapsed":true},{"path":"Book/经济理财","collapsed":true},{"path":"Book/艺术","collapsed":true},{"path":"Book/计算机","collapsed":true},{"path":"Company","collapsed":true},{"path":"Company/信息化","collapsed":true},{"path":"Company/信息化/规范","collapsed":true},{"path":"Culture","collapsed":true},{"path":"Government","collapsed":true},{"path":"Government/中国","collapsed":true},{"path":"Government/中国/标准","collapsed":true},{"path":"Government/中国/法律","collapsed":true},{"path":"Journal","collapsed":true},{"path":"Journal/2022","collapsed":true},{"path":"Journal/2022/W34","collapsed":true},{"path":"Journal/2022/W35","collapsed":true},{"path":"Journal/2022/W36","collapsed":true},{"path":"Journal/2022/W37","collapsed":true},{"path":"Journal/2022/W38","collapsed":true},{"path":"Journal/2022/W39","collapsed":true},{"path":"Journal/2022/W41","collapsed":true},{"path":"Journal/2022/W42","collapsed":true},{"
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